By: Kyrie Sismaet
San Francisco, October 11 & 12- Nestled within the Minnesota Street Project’s art gallery in the historic Dogpatch district, Chef Heena Patel’s Besharam was vibrantly alit last Saturday and Sunday for a grand Diwali dinner that drew in full houses both nights from her brilliantly inventive offerings and radiant atmosphere.
The dinner featured three courses which boldly elevated classic Indian vegetarian favorites in remarkably ingenious approaches, a signature of Chef Heena’s that Besharam became instantly adored for. The name of the restaurant, roughly translated as “shameless,” truly embodies both Heena Patel’s fearlessness towards reimagining Gujarati cuisine and uplifting Indian culture, and in her culinary journey towards opening her beloved establishment.
Set within her comforting ambience that evokes both a cozy welcoming home and a modernly vivid immersive custom art experience, Besharam’s Diwali feast cemented this classic and contemporary duality with an “Eat With Your Hands” extravaganza of 20 various bites and dishes. The completely vegetarian meal, which included the option of a carefully curated wine pairing, began with Papad & Khakhra crackers and a perfect plethora of jams and chutneys of Date-Tamarind, Apple Chundo, Murabba, and Lime Pickle.
The main course boasted a thali-inspired plate adorned with a samosa, Khaman, Thepla, and Poori for which to dip and lather on the divinely creamy Khadi, Muthias, Panchvati Dal with tempered chilies, Tindola Saak, irresistibly luscious Malai Koftas, and so much more. The tactile element of eating using your hands not only pays respect to tradition, but also allows you connect deeper with the food.
Dessert was just as deluxe, and served as a fantastic finale to the joyous jubilation, consisting of Kaju Katli, Mohanthal, and the indulgently familiar Gulab Jamun precisely topped with a gold leaf. The entire spread not only bridged cultures, but also kindly welcomed you into Chef Heena’s culinary vision, life story, and soul. “It’s been so amazing seeing the community support us, our history, and our culture,” Chef Heena cherishes, “especially after the pandemic lockdown and all the negative news about the city. We can’t wait to see what the future holds.”
From Chef Heena’s childhood inspirations watching the women in her family cook in Gujarat, India, to earning a residency at San Francisco’s culinary incubator La Cocina in 2014, working at State Bird Provisions, and opening Besharam in 2018, Chef Heena has continued to earn acclaim from her genuine talent and unrelenting passion. Most recently she earned Eater San Francisco’s Restaurant of the Year in 2019, and was recognized as a James Beard Foundation Awards Best Chef California semifinalist in 2022. Her Diwali celebration was a true testament to her skills and community support, and just like her, we also cannot wait to see what she has in store.
Besharam is open Wednesday to Saturday 5-9PM, Sunday 5-8PM, and you can make a reservation on their site: besharamrestaurant.com
