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Mestiza’s Resilient Reopening Modernizes Tradition with Inventive Kamayan and Plant-Based Classics

by Kyrie Sismaet
May 23, 2024
in Food, Lifestyle
0
Mestiza’s Resilient Reopening Modernizes Tradition with Inventive Kamayan and Plant-Based Classics

Photos by Melissa de Mata

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San Francisco- Just like the persevering and enduring spirit of the Filipino community, Deanna Sison wasn’t going to let the 2020 pandemic closure of her restaurant Mestiza hinder her from ever feeding her loyal patrons again. With the ingeniously masterful Chef Syl Mislang alongside her, Deanna has formidably reopened the beloved Mestiza on Thursday, April 18, now comfortably in San Francisco’s historic SOMA Pilipinas district right near the bustling Oracle Park.

Photos by Melissa de Mata

The restaurant’s revival marks a revitalization not only for Deanna, but for the city’s culinary tapestry and for the creative representation of Filipino cuisine and upholding of heritage as a whole. “Being right by the baseball stadium, Mission Rock, and downtown, I’m excited for more than just the Filipino community to try our food,” Deanna excitedly tells The Fil-Am Post. “I want Mestiza to be nourishing, nurturing, and neighborhood friendly,”

Meaning “woman of mixed heritage,” Mestiza’s name reverberates the cuisine’s theme of fusion, with tradition and innovation blending seamlessly on the colorful decor, refreshing libations, and of course, on the plate. There is a strong emphasis on plant-based dishes, an objective by Chef Syl Mislang, formerly of the vegan pop-up The Roaming Spoon, to bring a fresh perspective to traditionally meatier Filipino staples. Mislang’s culinary expertise shines through in inventive creations like the sweet potato-stuffed lumpia, and the silky calabasa coconut curry with aji verde. These dishes not only honor Filipino flavors but also cater to a growing demand for healthier, plant-forward options that also highlights ephemeral Californian seasonality. 

Photos by Melissa de Mata

For those who prefer meat there are also chicken inasal, a grilled chicken dish accompanied by green papaya achara, and the braised pork adobo wrap are perfectly marinated, charred, and tender. The innovative vegan sisig, made lighter with mushroom tempeh and topped with chile garlic crisp and pickled red onions, offers an equally filling and delightfully playful twist. Mestiza is also designed to cater to a fast-casual setup with their grab-and-go case and takeout window, convenient for those Giants fans heading to a game. 

Photos by Melissa de Mata

Beginning in May, Mestiza has also introduced their reservation-only kamayan feasts, a unique dining experience where food is served family-style on banana leaves, encouraging guests to eat with their hands. This is the ultimate communal dining experience on their lush patio to fully immerse yourself hands-on into traditional Filipino culture, featuring a wide spread of pork belly, whole shrimp, salmon, garlic rice, and more. 

To round off the meal, a lusciously creamy oat milk soft serve with rotating toppings like pinipig (toasted rice) and ube brownies provides a sweet and satisfying end. The inclusive drink menu includes a curated selection of craft beer, local wine, and soju cocktails, along with nonalcoholic options like a pineapple-ginger shrub and a cold brew made with Barako coffee.

Photos by Melissa de Mata

In a city renowned for its culinary diversity, Mestiza is more than just a new restaurant; it’s an ongoing story and celebration of heritage, a triumph over adversity. Whether you’re grabbing a quick bite or settling in for a sumptuous communal kamayan, Deanna Sison and Chef Syl Mislang offer a dining experience that’s as rich and varied as the community it serves.

Mestiza is located at 214 Townsend Street. For hours, visit https://www.mestizasf.com/patio-takeovers

For reservations, contact info@mestizasf.com or call 415-655-9187.

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